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For me, traveling to Iran was an experience which would change my life in ways I had never imagined.Now, I am continuing upon my adventures in the Middle East with my wife — it feels weird to write it — by my side.

Amir, an Iranian friend of mine, explained it to me: “In Iran, you can find everything; parties, one-night stands, alcohol, LSD, everything is possible.” We spent an entire day looking for a mullah willing to marry a foreigner and a local Iranian girl, we were rejected multiple times but finally managed to find a bearded fellow willing to help us. When prompted, I repeated after the Mullah — both he and Esme laughed at my attempts at Farsi as I struggled through.

Smiling broadly, the Mullah shook my hand, welcomed me to Iran in scratchy English and stamped a small booklet with our photos pasted into it. We took to the road, keen to explore as much of Iran as possible, to peel back the layers of an often forgotten country and to hitch the entire length of Iran and back.

I LAY IN MY SLEEPING BAG, the cold barely kept at bay.

I had entered Iran during the depths of winter and was beginning to wonder if this had been a mistake.

Luckily, thanks to Couchsurfing, we were rescued by some locals who let us crash in their sitting room while we came up with a plan.

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